Shillong | What the locals eat

There are some things you can be fairly certain of when you’re visiting Shillong—a city that, as a travel destination, isn’t exactly new. First and most reliably, there will be pork; lots of it. There will be maddening traffic. You’ll be guzzling ‘red’ tea to ward off the cold, all while enjoying the prettiest of views. There will be mind-bending tastings, fiery chutneys washed down with local fruit wines and some of the best Indo-Chinese in the country.

When it comes to discovering the bones of a city though, there are few experiences as revealing (or as satisfying) as exploring its food scene. We asked Shillong’s foodies for eating joints that left the strongest impression on their taste buds. From fine dining to bold flavours of indigenous culinary traditions, this list has the best of what Shillong has to offer.

KAI NUNG

A little over a year old, Kai Nung (meaning ‘heart of the house’ in Rongmei) specialises in food from across the Northeast. Here, Manipuri Eromba (fermented fish and seasonal vegetable chutney) finds space on the menu alongside Garo Do’o Kappa (green chicken curry) and a simple Mizo-style stir-fry of Khanghu (climbing wattle). And, it reflects chef and owner Fufu Pomei’s passion for little-known ingredients and dishes from the region. She even grows a lot of the greens that aren’t easily available in Shillong. A speciality at Kai Nung is their snail dishes. “Depending on whether snails are from the river or paddy fields, the preparation of the dish changes. One is cooked with axone (fermented soybean) and the other Manipuri-style with jaiur and michinga (local varieties of Sichuan) leaves,” says designer Daniel Syiem. The space is simple and homey, and the food tastes like something your grandmother might make—if she was a Northeasterner.

Address: Opposite Nagaland House, Nongrim Hills

RYNSAN

Indigenous cuisines of Meghalayan tribes—Khasi, Garo and Jaintia—get a modern twist in this intimate, casually elegant restaurant that’s been a hit since they opened their doors in 2022. Tucked away in a traditional Assam-type bungalow, Rynsan (meaning ‘platform’ in Khasi) is the brainchild of Khasi musician Hammarsing Kharhmar and wife Riyaki Jana. “Rynsan has quickly become the one place I recommend to everyone visiting Shillong. While their experiments with local ingredients and methods of cooking have made our food more accessible for those visiting, for locals like me, it’s interesting to see these new interpretations. Their dishes are truly unique and often, even surprise me,” says designer and entrepreneur Iba Mallai. High on her list of favourites is Syrwa Pashor (banana blossom soup), Jaiur Wings (chicken wings tossed with local Sichuan peppers), Wild Perilla Pasta and Nei ong (Black Sesame) Panna Cotta. Meals always start with a complimentary platter of local greens that include jamyrdoh (fish mint), wild coriander and jyllang (garlic chives); and can be accompanied by fiery chutneys and pickles—an integral part of indigenous meals—which range from smoked chicken chutney to Mizo bamboo shoot pickle.

Address: Laitumkhrah, near Shillong College

NONNA MEI

Mumbai-based chef Niyati Rao’s Nonna Mei is an exciting new addition to Shillong’s food map. As the name suggests—Nonna is Italian for grandmother and Mei is the Khasi word for mother—the restaurant blends local flavours into classic Italian dishes. The menu is short and deeply considered, but expect a hold-onto-your-hat culinary adventure. Think bruschetta topped with jyllang (garlic chives) and Spaghetti Aglio e Olio with shrimp marinated in bitchi (Garo fermented rice wine). This fusion also extends to their beverages list that features smoked pork and the Lakadong turmeric Negronis. “The highlight for me was their mutton brain with jyllang and axone (fermented soybean). It’s a take on the Italian dish, Trippa alla Romana, and is one of the yummiest things I have eaten,” says chef and entrepreneur Ahmedaki Laloo. Situated just off Khyndailad right at the centre of buzzy Police Bazaar, the first-floor restaurant’s expansive floor-to-ceiling windows make it a great spot for people-watching. They also have a quaint little store selling local fruit wines, pickles and preserves along with hand-painted cutlery and hand-embroidered napkins.

Address: The Shillong Address, Khyndailad, Police Bazaar

TRATTORIA

Shillong is dotted with Ja-sha (rice and tea) shops or Jadoh stalls where food is slow-cooked and there is no menu. Typically, you’d have a few pork, chicken and fish dishes, seasonal vegetables, rice, dal, chutneys and salad. At the counter, you pick what you want and it’s all served on a plate. For almost 50 years, Trattoria in the heart of Shillong has been a favourite among locals. “It’s the closest to home food you can eat outside,” is how entrepreneur and hotelier Larsing Ming Sawyan explains Trattoria’s enduring popularity. His typical lunch order includes Jadoh (rice cooked with pork fat and blood), doh nei ong (pork in black sesame gravy), doh shain (minced pork or beef meatballs). Apart from seasonal vegetables, this would also include sides like doh khlieh (pig’s head salad) and tungtap (fermented fish chutney). “It’s no-fuss, soul-satisfying food,” adds Sawyan.

Address: MUDA, Police Bazaar

THE WOK

Ask any local and they’d tell you that Shillong Chinese is different (and maybe even better) than the Indo-Chinese that’s served in the rest of the country. Chow (noodles) and momo haven’t just become culinary staples—you’re not a true-blue Shillongite if you don’t have a strong opinion on who does it best. In a city dotted with legacy Chinese restaurants, The Wok is an institution. Nothing about the 25-year-old restaurant is flashy; the interiors are basic and the food wholesome. “There’s a sincerity in their flavours that hasn’t changed in all these years. Their chow and chicken chilli are the hero and heroine of my meals there. On a cold, rainy day, their soup chow or even wonton soup hits the spot,” says National Award-winning filmmaker Pradip Kurbah. The extensive menu now also features pan-Asian dishes like Vietnamese Pho and Thai curries.

Address: Laitumkhrah & LaChaumiere